Dunstaffnage Castle

Before any stone castle rose on the promontory guarding the entrance to Loch Etive, the site may have held a Dál Riatan stronghold known as Dun Monaidh, perhaps as early as the 7th century. John Monipennie recorded in 1612 that the Stone of Destiny was kept here after its arrival from Ireland, before being moved to Scone in 843, and Hector Boece's "Evonium" has traditionally been identified with Dunstaffnage — though Iona and Dunadd are considered likelier homes for the stone, given their known connections with the Dál Riatan and Strathclyde kings. The later name joins Gaelic dun, "fort", to Norse stafa nes, "headland of the staves".

A castle stood here in the time of Somerled, but in the second quarter of the 13th century it became the seat of his grandson Duncan MacDougall, Lord of Lorn — placing Dunstaffnage among Scotland's oldest stone castles, in a local group with Castle Sween and Castle Tioram. Duncan travelled to Rome in 1237 and founded nearby Ardchattan Priory, and also built the chapel that stands 150 metres from the castle, its lancet windows carrying dog-tooth carving of outstanding quality.

His son Ewen inherited in the 1240s and expanded MacDougall influence, styling himself "King of the Isles" though that title belonged to the MacDonalds; it was probably Ewen who added the three round towers and enlarged the hall. After Alexander III repulsed Norse influence in Argyll the MacDougalls backed the Scottish monarchy, and Ewen's son Alexander was made first sheriff of Argyll in 1293.

The MacDougalls took the Balliol side in the Wars of Independence, and paid for it. Robert Bruce defeated Clan MacDougall at the Battle of the Pass of Brander in August 1308, and after a brief siege took Dunstaffnage itself. He did not destroy it, as he did other castles: he appointed a constable and provisioned it, thinking to use it to guard the countryside and the seaways. Much of the MacDougall lands, including nearby Mull, went to his friend Angus Og MacDonald, Lord of the Isles.

Now Crown property, Dunstaffnage passed through a series of keepers. James I seized the castle in 1431, after the Battle of Inverlochy, because his enemies were hiding inside. In 1455 James Douglas, 9th Earl of Douglas, stayed here on his way to treat with John MacDonald, Lord of the Isles — a journey that led to the Treaty of Westminster-Ardtornish. In 1463 the keeper John Stewart of Lorn was stabbed by supporters of his rival Alan MacDougall on the way to his own marriage at Dunstaffnage Chapel; he survived long enough to make his vows. MacDougall took the castle, but James III ousted him and in 1470 granted Dunstaffnage to Colin Campbell, 1st Earl of Argyll.

The Earls of Argyll appointed hereditary Captains to keep Dunstaffnage in readiness, rebuilt the east tower as a four-storey gatehouse in the late 15th century, and used the castle as a base for government expeditions against the MacDonald Lords of the Isles through the 15th and 16th centuries. James IV visited twice. The castle held out against Montrose's army in 1644, was burned by royalist troops after the failure of Argyll's Rising against James VII in 1685, and was occupied by government troops during the Jacobite risings of 1715 and 1745. Flora MacDonald, who helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape from Scotland, was briefly imprisoned here on her way to London.

A new house was built over the old west range in 1725, but the rest of the castle was already decaying, and after an accidental fire gutted the gatehouse in 1810 the Captains moved out to Dunstaffnage House; tenants lived in the 1725 house until 1888. The Duke of Argyll began restoration in 1903, and in 1912 the Court of Session ruled that Angus Campbell, 20th hereditary Captain, kept his right of residence notwithstanding the Duke's ownership. In 1958 the 21st Captain and the Duke handed the castle into state care. The office of Hereditary Captain of Dunstaffnage survives: to retain the title, the incumbent must still spend three nights a year in the castle.