Lee

In the autumn of 1589, in the upstairs parlour of the parsonage at Calverton in Nottinghamshire, the Reverend William Lee, twenty-six years old, a recently ordained Cambridge curate of the village living, finished the construction of a wooden hand-operated knitting machine of his own design: a frame on which a row of about a hundred small barbed-needle hooks (eight per inch, the fine-gauge stocking density) could be brought down through a row of weft yarn, loops drawn through previously formed loops, and a row of stocking knit in a single motion. The machine, by every later assessment of the textile-history scholars (Charles Singer, Stanley Chapman), is the first complex mechanical loom-and-needle device in European industrial history and the foundational machine of the modern knitting industry. Tradition holds that Lee had developed the machine because he was, in his courtship, distracted by the rapid hand-movements of his fiancée when she was knitting; the folk-attribution of the courtship-motive is, by the nineteenth-century antiquaries, probably apocryphal but is attested in the local Calverton tradition since at least the seventeenth century. Lee travelled to London in 1589 to seek a Crown patent from Elizabeth I; the queen, by the court tradition, refused the patent on the grounds that the machine would impoverish her hand-knitters. Lee took the machine to France in 1604 under the patronage of Henri IV, who granted him a French patent and pension; Henri's assassination in 1610 cut off the support, and Lee died in Paris a few years later in obscurity.

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